A Glacier With a View

From your computer, you can watch a YouTube clip of giant glaciers breaking into the waters of Patagonian lakes. Or, as the cognoscenti know, the town of El Calafate, perched on the edge of Argentina’s region of majestic glaciers, is the headquarters for exploration, observation and relaxation.

El Calafate, named for a flowering bush in the region, is located 1,800 miles south of Buenos Aires and just 48 miles from the entrance to Glaciers National Park. One of Argentina’s oldest national parks, it was founded in 1937 and UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site in 1981.

Leveraging its location and tapping into growing demand for unique travel experiences in recent years, the town has become one of the country’s hottest tourist destinations during the September-to-April season. In summer, El Calafate is dry sunny during the day with temperatures averaging 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius) and cool at night.

El Calafate currently boasts more than 7,000 rooms in some 155 hotels, ranging from rustic cabins to luxury accommodations, and it now receives more than 300,000 visitors each season. More than half of those tourists come from outside Argentina, primarily from Europe and the United States, according to Ana Ianni, the local tourism director.

Visitors can traverse footbridges for views of Perito Moreno Glacier, the largest in the region, or hike on the glacier itself. Sightseeing by boat is another option that presents a different perspective of the landscape.  Local tour operators offer one-day catamaran cruises on Lake Argentino to view the Upsala, Spegassini and Onelli glaciers.

The ice frequently breaks off the glaciers, often in a gigantic cascade into the icy waters, in a natural phenomenon that has been taking place for decades and is not necessarily the result of climate change.

“The landscape is imposing and it makes you feel small among so much enormity,” said Paula de Benedetto, an Argentine who recently visited the region.

“To sail among the immense glaciers is an amazing experience,” Benedetto said. “The contrast of the silence that reigns in the region and the roar that ensues when a piece of ice comes loose is stirring. You could also say it is a spiritual outing.”

Tour operator Hielo y Aventura (Ice and Adventure) leads moderate and difficult excursions on the Perito Moreno Glacier.
Their “Big Ice” excursion, which costs $150 per person, is a lengthy hike that is restricted to adults between the ages 18 and 45. Two guides supervise groups of no more than 10.

“The excursion is not risky, but the walk can take up to seven hours and some people can tire,” explained José Pera, manager of Hielo y Aventura.

The company also offers a shorter excursion of only two hours that is open to children as young as 10 and adults up to age 65.
For those who are up for the longer hike, Pera recommends the “Big Ice” trip. “You get a better understanding of the significance of the glacier and an idea of the immensity of the ice field,” he said.

Agustín Dallasalda, a 30-year-old engineer from Buenos Aires, agreed the long hike was worth it.

“You can see the glacier from the water or the view points. But to walk on the glacier is marvelous,” Dallasalda said. “You walk along looking at all the tones of the ice, skirting huge crevices and then end up drinking whiskey using ice from the glacier.”

In the environs around El Calafate, visitors can choose from numerous other outdoor activities, such as hiking, fishing and golfing as well as horseback riding or traveling on all-terrain vehicles on designated off-road circuits.

Tourists can visit a typical Patagonian ranch, watch the shearing of sheep and enjoy a traditional lunch or dinner of roasted local lamb.
Other regional culinary specialties may feature venison, duck and trout – plus the famed Argentine beef – accompanied by national vintages like Malbec.

A handful of ranches near the glacier also offer lodging.

You can reach El Calafate, which lies at the latitude of the Falkland Islands, by air from Buenos Aires and from other Argentine cities like Bariloche. Visitors also arrive by bus or car from Puerto Natales in Chile.

LT Guide: El Calafate

What to do, where to dine, where to stay and how to book.

Hielo y Aventura offers the “Big Ice” and “Mini Trekking” excursions on the Perito Moreno Glacier. Required gear includes gloves, a winter coat, dark glasses and sun protection.
Telephone: 54-2902- 492205 www.hieloyaventura.com

Fernández Campbell offers catamaran excursions on the lake to visit the principle glaciers in the park. The excursions leave daily from the port of Punta Bandera. Telephone: 54-2902-491155 www.fernandezcampbell.com

Estancia Cristina offers outdoor activities at a Patagonian ranch. Visitors can hike, ride horses and go bird watching or fish. The Estancia Cristina also offers meals and lodging. Telephone: 54-2902-491133. www.estanciacristina.com

Posada Los Alamos: This luxury hotel has 144 rooms with views of an interior courtyard or the Andes Mountains. The hotel has a heated swimming pool, a spa and a nine-hole golf course.
Telephone: 54-2902-491144 www.posadalosalamos.com

Hotel Los Notros: Located in Glaciers National Park, the upscale Los Notros has a spectacular view of the Perito Moreno Glacier.
Telephone: 54-2902-499510 www.losnotros.com

Design Suites Calafate. A chic modern hotel located in the town of El Calafate.
Telephone: 54-2902-494525 www.designsuites.com