Brazil’s Island Paradise
Larry Luxner | May 30, 2009 | Comments 0
Mention the words “Fernando de Noronha” to most Brazilians and a dreamy, almost jealous, expression spreads across their faces. A tiny speck of paradise in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, Noronha is hopelessly out of reach, geographically and financially, to all but a handful of the country’s 185 million inhabitants.
Located 210 miles off the coast of the northeastern port of Recife, the archipelago of Fernando de Noronha is home to some of Brazil’s most beautiful beaches, as well as one of the world’s largest dolphin colonies. Sought after for its seclusion and natural beauty, the main island is also expensive to live on: the grinding poverty seen elsewhere in Brazil is virtually non-existent and most families here boast of owning cars and having Internet access.
Local authorities zealously guard this island paradise and its sensitive ecosystem. At the tiny airport, arriving visitors receive plastic litterbags and must register on a computer database known as NoronhaNet. The computer system allows officials to track how many tourists are on the islands, where they’re from and where they’re staying. Sleeping on the beach is prohibited and anyone caught doing so risks a huge fine.
Just past Noronha’s little fishing port and its only gas station sits a ramshackle art gallery known simply as Airfrance. From this spot, a gravel road leads to a lonely promontory; the nearest Brazil comes to Africa. Here, at latitude 3º 54’ S. and 32º 25’ W., one is closer to Dakar, Senegal, than to São Paulo.
But you’d never know it, because Noronha is Brazilian to the core. Discovered by Amerigo Vespucci in 1503, the islands of the archipelago form a special municipality of the Brazilian state of Pernambuco.
There is only one bank for Noronha’s 3,000 permanent residents – a branch of Banco Real, complete with an ATM. From there, it’s a short walk to the Bar do Cachorro, where teenagers dance until 2 a.m. to loud, blasting forró, Brazilian country music, or exactly 72 steps down to the pristine sand of Praia do Cachorro, an ideal windsurfing spot.
Noronha’s most important landmark is Morro do Pico, a 1,000-foot-high rock formation towering over the main island and visible from the rest of the archipelago. Images of Morro do Pico appear on key chains, coffee mugs and T-shirts at island souvenir shops.
Among the island’s biggest attractions is windsurfing. Twelve-foot waves attract windsurfers from around the world to compete in the Hang Loose Pro Contest, which has been held in January and February for the last 20 years.
Visitors can snorkel among the small islands in the Bay of Pigs. In addition, tourists can enjoy dolphin-watching, nature hikes, riding rented dune buggies or just relaxing on one of the dozen or so empty white-sand beaches, doing nothing except getting a suntan and wondering exactly how far they are from the African coast.
A word of caution: Noronha is prohibitively expensive for most tourists. One reason is the draconian tax system, which discourages long stays. Noronha levies a tax of R$99 (US$45) on those leaving the islands after three days. After 20 days, the departure tax goes up to R$1,117 (US$506) and after 30 days, it’s a whopping R$2,733 (US$1,238).
LT Guide: Fernando de Noronha
What to do, where to dine, where to stay and how to book.
Zé Maria: This restaurant overlooking the Morro do Pico offers “Salada Zé Maria” with eight kinds of vegetables and greens for R$20 (US$9), as well as “Sinfonia Marítima,” which costs R$35 (US$16) and includes eight kinds of seafood accompanied by tomato sauce, coconut milk, rice and toast. www.ladatco.com/fen-ze.htm
Pousada Maravilha: Opened in 2003, this is the priciest of the island’s 100 pousadas – rooms here start at R$1,440 (US$652) a night. A typical poolside dinner consists of linguini, grilled tuna with salad, potato purée and a banana “flambada” — all for R$69 (US$31). The spectacular view and live bossa nova guitar music are free. www.pousadamaravilha.com.br
Atlantis Divers: Scuba-diving shop charges R$200 for an introductory course, including boats and equipment rentals. For an extra R$150, you can also have an underwater DVD made of your diving experience. www.atlantisdivers.com.br
Capitão Dos Mares Bar: Every afternoon, virtually every tourist on Noronha gathers to watch the spectacular sunset as Ravel’s Bolero reverberates from huge speakers.
» For general information about Fernando de Noronha go to:
» For surfing information go to:
» For scuba diving also try:
Filed Under: On the Road
